Tubbs' Thoughts

Although I have been in the Netherlands for four months, my study program has kept me busy enough to limit my exploration of the Netherlands outside of Amsterdam. However, during this winter break, I have explored two Dutch cities with a unique history, which visitors often neglect: Amersfoort and Leiden. Both towns have deep and intriguing histories, giving insight into Dutch culture on a smaller and more intimate scale.

Amersfoort

Originally built as the center of the Netherlands, Amersfoort is known for its towering brick and stone walls surrounding the medieval city center. As one of the few cities spared from extensive bombing in World War II, much of the original city center is present. This is where I spent most of my time, which began with a quick breakfast stop at Juffrouw Jacoba, a lovely crepe restaurant with fresh juices and a wide variety of crepes and pastries.

After my breakfast (which was at noon because I slept in), I headed to what ended up being the highlight of my tour: The Tower. The most notable part of the city center is the ‘Onze Lieve Vrouwentoren’ or ‘Tower of Our Lady,’ which dates back to the early 13th century. As one of the tallest towers in the Netherlands, it remains the only part of the old church it was a part of. The tower tour is 9 euros and is 100% worth the climb to the top. Despite being a long (and tiring) climb, there are four stops along the way, the first is a break where the guide explains the tower’s unique history, including the myth of the ‘Lady’ protecting it all.

Continuing the ascent, the stops continue to admire the bells ringing and understand how the tower has been maintained and utilized as a center point for the Netherlands. Upon reaching the top, you find yourself amongst phenomenal gothic architecture and a fantastic 360-degree view of the old town. Despite the wind on top, the view is absolutely breathtaking, especially when the sun peeks out (which in the winter is rare here). This certainly was the best thing I did that day, not to mention getting in a great workout on the stairs. Fair warning for fellow dare-devils, the tower staircases are spiral and can be dark, so be mindful and take your time.

After the workout I gained on the tower, I found I needed a pick-me-up, to which I enjoyed a broodje (sandwich) I packed in my bag. I continued to walk around the Old Town’s perimeter to see the reason Amersfoort got its name- The stone walls that make the old fort city. The walls are strong, decorated with paneled windows and city insignia as a clear signal to those entering its gates. These sections of the town transport you to the past and immerse you in medieval times (without the bad parts). If you want a more authentic view of an old townhouse, head to the Flehite Museum to explore historical architecture, artworks, and more about the city’s history.

Amersfoort carries a deep history from every era, allowing visitors to absorb each part uniquely. There are many things I did not do, including art museums, parks, and gardens (I will be returning in Springtime). Regardless, Amersfoort proved to be a worthwhile exploration.

Leiden

Leiden is a small city between Amsterdam and Den Haag (The Hague). Another city mostly spared from bombings and world war damage, Leiden is a beautiful blend of the old and the new, with a rich history and many hidden gems. 
I began by meeting my classmate at the station, a Leiden local who graciously offered to give me a bike tour of the town and much-needed study time. Beginning on our bikes, we traveled towards the center of the Old Town, stopping at the old orphanage and historic Cathedral.

The Hooglandse Kerk is a stunning cathedral towering over the Leiden Old Town and symbolizing medieval architecture. In the modern day, the church functions not only as a place of worship but as an event and community space, especially keen to host concerts. On the same street is the Heilige Geestweeshuis (Holy Spirit Orphanage), which served as an orphanage for many years, now featured as a historical exhibit. Here, you can discover the history of the building and Leiden concerning children, families, and orphans.

Continuing to the highlight of Leiden, the Burcht van Leiden. The Burcht is a medieval fortress serving historical and wartime purposes. After summiting at the top, there is a gorgeous 360-degree view of Leiden, where you can see the city through every century and decade. This was my favorite part of the day, especially as I could take a quiet moment to soak in the views and the calm breeze.

We continued our bike ride and found a lovely mix of vintage shops, artisan cafes, bakeries, and specialty bookstores. Unfortunately, I did not have time to see these places, but these are some of Leiden’s many hidden gems. I then shared a meal with my classmate, a typical Dutch lunch of hard-boiled eggs, toast, cheese, and croissants.

After this, we decided we needed to study somewhere and elected to go to a new coffee spot in the center- the Grotsk Koffiebar. My classmate had a lovely fresh ginger lemon tea, while I had a cortado. The espresso was so good I had two (plus staying up until 2am; worth it!). At the end of the day, lovely Leiden will be a city I will certainly return to and explore more. One thing I recommend for everyone who visits is to rent a bicycle! Although Leiden is not a big city like Amsterdam, it will have bike paths everywhere, catering to those on wheels and making a day or afternoon trip manageable. Safe Travels, Tubbs.